The end of the Camino

So, that's the story of my journey on the Camino de Santiago... one of the most extraordinary experiences of a lifetime.  To be part of the flow of millions who have made this journey over 1,200 years is absolutely incredible.

Here's a video of what this flow of peregrinos through history have experienced as they first approach the end of the Camino- Entering the tunnel. Going through the dark, and emerging into the overwhelming plaza in front of the spectacular cathedral.

Thanks for taking the journey with me.

Day 7 - the Pilgrim's Mass

The capstone of the Camino trip is the noon Pilgrims' Mass. The entire church is packed with people from all over the world who have made the trek through Spain to Santiago de Compostela.

We were very lucky that this day, the ceremony included the Botofumiero -- it's extremely rare that it's used, and this is only on major feast days.

The Botofumiero is an enormous incense burner that's the size of a man. It's suspended from the ceiling of the cathedral. At the end of mass, it takes six men pulling on ropes to operate it. They fire it up, and one jumps on it to start it swinging. By alternately pulling on the ropes the six men send it flying over the crowd, with it nearly touching the ceiling. It spews incense, and you can see the fire blazing inside. It's quite a show. (Which they don't let you take photos of...)

But here's the Botofumiero at rest -- it's entirely made of silver.

Day 7 - The Cathedral.

I got up early in the morning to take photos of the streets in Santiago de Compostela. That day's pilgrims were already arriving, including a group on horseback who rode right into the main square of the cathedral.

Visiting St. James in the cathedral and attending the Pilgrim's mass at noon is the traditional finale for the peregrino.

As you'd guess from the outside, the cathedral is HUGE. Here are photos as you enter, and of the altar itself -- yes it's all real gold. This is unchanged, as it has appeared to millions of pilgrims for over 1,000 years as they finished the journey.

There's a traditional ceremony that pilgrims perform when they enter the cathedral. You touch the feet of  St. James' statue at the side of the altar, then ascend a stairway that winds around the back of the altar, and give the golden St. James there a hug and prayer of gratitude. (See the hands of someone hugging the statue)

You can then go into the crypt below the altar and see Old St. James' bones in a silver box. These are the bones that were found in a field around 800 AD and began the entire devotion to Santiago de Compostela.

Day 6- After arriving at the Cathedral.

After spending some time exploring around the Cathedral, it was time to get my Compostela. This is the certificate that the Church gives to peregrinos who have received at least two stamps a day during their Camino.  There's a small office down the block from the Cathedral where they validate your stamps, and issue the Compostela. A small office, filled with hundreds of sweaty pilgrims waiting in line for hours. But after walking for 6 days (or more) it's worth it! Actually the line wound through a very pleasant garden with a fountain.

Here's are photos of the office, my passport with all the stamps, my Compostela and the pilgrim's shell that accompanied me every day on my backpack during the trip.

After all this, I enjoyed an excellent lunch on a patio in view of the cathedral. Yes, octopus and beer again...

Day 6 arriving in Santiago. The end of the Camino. Part 1



We left earlier than usual from Pedurozo for our last hike of the Camino. With 12 miles to go, we wanted to be sure to arrive in Santiago de Compostela with time to explore. The hike was a bit more difficult than the last few days’. A good number of hills, but very scenic. About 3 miles from Santiago, you ascend the “ hill of joy”... this is the first time you can actually see the cathedral from the Camino. There’s an enormous sculpture on top commemorating all the pilgrims that have passed this way.

After this, there’s quite a hike to the end of the Camino. It’s mostly through the urban part of Santiago de Compostela, which is a fairly large city (95,000 residents). I walked past car dealerships, the futbol stadium, homes, and down city streets. Then you enter the old city, and it’s wonderful. Ancient, ancient buildings, over 1,000 years old. Tiny cobblestone streets. You keep following the markers right to the front of the Cathedral. It’s incredible. At the very end, you pass through a tunnel, and finally finish your Camino in front of the church. 

And the Camino is completed!

Everyone is celebrating!

An amazing experience...

Day 5 on the Camino

Today’s hike was about 11 miles, from Arzua to Peduroso.

.... having trouble with the IPad and photos today, so some are out of order below, but you’ll get the idea....

This is a photo of a typical trail on the Camino. See how the path is below the level of the surrounding woods? This is partly from erosion, and partly from millions of pilgrims’ feet over 1,200 years of walking.

Along the way, you see many of the same people over and over, each day, walking, at rest stops, and in the evening in town. I’ve connected with a great couple from Baton Rouge and spent the full day today walking with them. Really nice folks.

There are also a group of women from The Villages in Florida who we’ve met up with in the morning at breakfast, and a couple of times for dinner. Five women on the road having a great time.


One of today’s rest stops is famous for its beer. The tradition is that you drink a beer for good luck, then hang the bottle from one of the trees at the rest area. First time I’ve had a beer at 10 am!

Not much in Peduroso, since it’s the last overnight stop before Santiago, and most people just arrive, sleep and move on quickly the next morning. Although the Paw Patrol stage show was coming to town...

I ate at a fun beer garden type place and had a traditional Galician dinner of cabbage and bean soup, cod with potatoes and cheese cake. Plus wine.

Day 4 on the Camino. St. James lays the smack down.

Me being the generally non emotional and private person I am, this will be an interesting
post...
But I know I need to say this...

After exploring Azura, I went back to the park, which is next to the main church in the center of town. As I was sitting, the church bells began to ring, so I said what the heck and went inside.

It turned out that this was the evening pilgrims’ mass. Even though it was in Spanish, it was the most beautiful and moving mass I’d ever attended.  During the ceremony, I felt absolutely drained and at the same time totally at peace, and absolutely quiet inside. Then I realized that the “spirits”of all my family members at home where there with me. My close friends too.  Not in a theoretical “ we’re there with you” way, but in a real tangible way. I could feel each one individually.

I was so happy and thankful for my life and those around me that it was actually painful.

They say the Camino gives you things when you least expect it. Well Santiago Matamoros, St. James the moor slayer laid his big sword on me at that mass.

At the end, the priest called all the peregrinos up to the altar gave us a blessing and sprinkled us with holy water. As we left church, the locals at the mass wished each of us individually “Buen Camino”.

I will never forget the infinite, immense gratitude I felt for all my blessings.

Day 4 on the Camino, part 2

After the park, I did a little more exploring in Arzua. What a pretty little town.

This nondescript church on a side street was actually built 150 years BEFORE COLUMBUS DISCOVERED AMERICA! How crazy is that?

Arzua is known for a uniquely shaped cheese, called tetilla...

There are also pharmacies every other block, catering to pilgrims who have problems with their feet, it being so far along into the Camino. Moleskin, disinfectant and ace bandages everywhere.

Day 4 on the Camino part 1

The hike for Wednesday was the shortest of the trip... only about 9 miles. So it was a pretty easy day with lots of time for exploring.

Breakfast was excellent. Thick hot chocolate and churros for dipping, and freshly baked croissants, with freshly squeezed orange juice.

Once I got to Azura, the endpoint for the day, I found a beautiful little park at the center of town, with  shady beech trees, a fountain and a cafe.

Had paella, bread and wine, then flan and espresso for dinner at the cafe. Some German ladies and I took each other’s photos. After dinner, I sat in the square with the other Spaniards and just enjoyed the evening. ( plus I ate some ice cream and a chocolate croissant - need to keep my strength up)